Caroline
- Nov 4, 2019
- 4 min read

In Search of Lake Ladoga

I have this recurring dream where I’m looking at Lake Ladoga (Ладожское озеро), attempting to find a ferry to Fort Oreshek (Крепость Орешек). My trip there impacted me, teaching me how to wander around Russia, properly.

Ever since hearing about Lake Ladoga, I wanted to go there. The Neva River, which carves St. Petersburg in half, starts at Lake Ladoga. It is the largest lake in Europe. After listening to my tour guide describe it, I resolved to see for myself.

I began playing my trip through my go-to travel resource in Saint-Petersburg: http://www.saint-petersburg.com. I decided going to Shsisselburg, a town located on the head on the Neva River in Leningrad Oblast. A regular bus went to Shlisselburg (Шлиссельбург) from St. Petersburg; that seemed like a better option compared to a train or a marshrutka. I decided on a Sunday in late October because I didn’t have classes that day. It also was the last day that the fortress on the lake was opened. Armed with a posted-note stating the bus number to Shlisselburg and money, I set out to have breakfast with my best friend, who was also studying abroad in St. Petersburg. After breakfast, I went to the metro and rode it to the bus station. My bus followed the Neva River to Shlisselburg.

My bus arrived at the small city, Shlisselburg. I was greeted by a statue of Peter the Great. People were fishing on concrete blocks; the main cathedral was under construction; the sky was gray. I initially planned to walk around the town then catch the next bus back to Saint Petersburg. As I walked around, I found a charming park with military tanks and vehicles and a Lenin bust.

I didn’t expect to go to the fort during my trip because I was concerned about money, weather and time. Running out of things to do in Shlisselburg, I gave in and walked to the ticket office (касса). Wanting the best view, I sat on the ferry’s upper boat and took in the beauty of the lake, constantly taking photos. Arriving at the fort, I bought a ticket and walked into the fort.

Though it is not famous, Крепость Орешек has played a critical role in Russian history. Established by the Novgorod Republic (a democratic republic based in Velikiy Novgorod), the fort was important to the economy because it allowed the republic to trade with Moscow and the Finns. Goods could go from the ocean by St. Petersburg to the mighty Volga River. The Novgorod Republic joined with the Moscow Duchy; the Swedish took over the fort. Peter the Great took over the fort during the Great Northern War. As she took power, Elizabeth imprisoned Ivan IV in the fort. He lived there for eight years until Catherine the Great ordered him to be killed. He was 23 years old. In the 1800s, Lenin’s brother, Alexander, was hanged on the island. During the Siege of Leningrad, the Soviets fought the Germans from the fort. It provided a way to evacuate people from Saint Petersburg and send provisions to the city under siege. Now, it is a museum. Some people refer to it as the Russian Bastille (more about the history and that nickname here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jBHHTFYFLMc&t=891s).

In the middle of the fort, there is a huge monument to World War II. I wandered over there, marving at the monument. My Russian was weak so I could barely read the sign. All I could discern is that Крепость Орешек was important to the development of Novgord, a city which I just got back from. All my trips and classes in Russia seemed to relate to Novgorod in some way or another.

I walked around the grass inside the fort. The sky was gray and dreary like most St. Petersburg fall days. I wanted to get close to the lake because when I was in Europe in 2013, my friends and I tried to put our feet in all the major bodies of water. I continued this tradition in Russia. I went to a beach outside and needed a photo so I walked up two teenagers, trying to ask for a photo in Russian then switching to English. Luckily, they spoke English and took a photo of me. Afterwards, they asked me where I was from. When I answered “the United States”, they gasped.

After enjoying the beach, I walked back into the fortress. I walked into a building. As I wander further, my surroundings got darker and darker. Looking forward, I noticed that I was in a medieval dungeon. Spooked, I quickly walked back to daylight. I found more modern jail cells within another structure. After two hours, I decided to go back to St. Petersburg. I barely made the bus to St. Petersburg and could barely find enough rubles to pay for my bus ride back.

I enjoyed seeing Lake Ladoga. I gained a new appreciation for the Siege of Leningrad and geography of medieval Russia. As I continued studying Russia and its history, I grew to understand the significance of this fortress to its history. For example, I didn’t understand the full story of Ivan IV until I watched a YouTube documentary on the Romanovs. Also, I learned that Lake Ladoga is the largest lake in Europe and that seals live in the lake. Next time, I plan to look for those seals.